Scientists and environmental advocates have long known that microfibers rub off clothing in the washing machine. Wachiwit / iStock / Getty Images Plus
What is the environmental footprint of your favorite pair of blue jeans?
<p>A new study indicates it might be quite large. The study, published in <a href="https://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/acs.estlett.0c00498" target="_blank">Environmental Science and Technology Letters</a> Wednesday, found denim <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/tag/microfibers" target="_self">microfibers</a> had infiltrated all the way to the Canadian <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/tag/arctic" target="_self">Arctic</a> Ocean. Researchers say it's a telling example of the extent of human-generated pollution.</p><p>"It's not an indictment of jeans — I want to be really clear that we're not coming down on jeans," study coauthor and University of Toronto environmental scientist Miriam Diamond <a href="https://www.wired.com/story/your-blue-jeans-are-polluting-the-ocean/?fbclid=IwAR0ImLGDKaFOz00SUdTb36l9TfbHyoliY16W8ICiuY0pTZSECXjsWMtOZJE&mbid=social_fb_sci&utm_brand=wired-science&utm_medium=social&utm_social-type=owned&utm_source=facebook" target="_blank">told WIRED</a>. "It's just a really potent example of human impact."</p>
<div id="f07e3" class="rm-shortcode" data-rm-shortcode-id="ed4acc51d06332189afa9d2eeb0c7195"><blockquote class="twitter-tweet twitter-custom-tweet" data-twitter-tweet-id="1301132809302663168" data-partner="rebelmouse"><div style="margin:1em 0">Yay! Our study on 'The Widespread Environmental Footprint of Indigo Denim #Microfibers from Blue Jeans' is out in… https://t.co/RELNCtmquQ</div> — Sam Athey (@Sam Athey)<a href="https://twitter.com/sustainablesam_/statuses/1301132809302663168">1599049210.0</a></blockquote></div>
<p><a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/tag/scientists" target="_self">Scientists</a> and environmental advocates have long known that <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/tag/plastic" target="_self">plastic</a> microfibers rub off synthetic clothing in the washing machine, where they enter the world's <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/tag/oceanshttps://www.ecowatch.com/tag/oceans" target="_self">oceans</a> and <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/tag/rivers" target="_self">rivers</a> via wastewater treatment plants. One study <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/laundry-clothes-plastic-pollution-oceans-2646168554.html" target="_self">estimated</a> that two garbage trucks worth of microfibers enter Europe's oceans this way every day. These fibers have been found everywhere from <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/plastics-ocean-animals-2509746046.html" target="_self">the bellies of deep-sea crustaceans</a> to <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/microplastics-in-ocean-2645891531.html" target="_self">concentrated hotspots</a> in the sediment of the Mediterranean seafloor.</p><p>At any given moment, about half of the world's population is wearing blue jeans or other types of denim. So researchers at the University of Toronto wondered whether the popular garment had an equally global environmental impact.</p>
<p>To find out, they looked at water samples from the Canadian Arctic Archipelago, the Great Lakes, and suburban lakes near Toronto. They found that indigo denim microfibers made up a sizable percentage of all the microfibers found in the three locations, <a href="https://www.acs.org/content/acs/en/pressroom/presspacs/2020/acs-presspac-september-2-2020/the-widespread-footprint-of-blue-jean-microfibers.html" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">according to an American Chemical Society (ACS) press release</a>; the percentages were as follows:</p><ol><li>Toronto Lakes: 12 percent</li><li>Arctic: 20 percent</li><li>Great Lakes: 23 percent</li></ol><p>"Unfortunately, the results are not surprising to environmental scientists; they are even expected," Caroline Gauchotte-Lindsay at the University of Glasgow in the UK, who was not involved in the study, told <a href="https://www.newscientist.com/article/2253421-blue-jeans-pollute-water-by-releasing-50000-microfibres-per-wash/?utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=echobox&utm_source=Twitter#Echobox=1599053088" target="_blank">New Scientist</a>.</p>
<p>The researchers didn't just look to see where the denim ended up. They also examined how it got there. To do this, they washed used, new and new distressed jeans, according to WIRED. They found that the new jeans released more fibers, and that a pair of jeans could release 56,000 microfibers per wash.</p><p>They also counted the denim microfibers that turned up in effluent, or discharge, from two wastewater treatment plants on Lake Ontario. They concluded that as many as a billion denim microfibers could be entering the lake every day.</p><p>While denim is made with organic fiber, not plastic, study coauthor Sam Athey told WIRED that it could still bring human contaminants to ocean ecosystems.</p>
<p>"They're called 'natural' textile fibers," Athey said. "I'm doing air quotes around 'natural' because they contain these chemical additives. They also pick up chemicals from the environment, when you're wearing your clothes, when they're in the closet."</p><p>The researchers did not check to see if the denim had entered the Arctic food web, but they did check the guts of Great Lakes rainbow smelt. However, they only found a single denim fiber in all of the fish they collected.</p><p>More research is needed to determine what impact, if any, blue jean fibers are having on the environment and <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/tag/marine-life" target="_self">marine life</a>. For now, there are steps you can take to keep your jeans from shedding into the oceans, Athey advised on Twitter. You can wash your jeans less frequently, get a filter for your washing machine and buy your jeans used.</p>
<div id="ce0f7" class="rm-shortcode" data-rm-shortcode-id="397a94af0c14897aa42f0075e2accddf"><blockquote class="twitter-tweet twitter-custom-tweet" data-twitter-tweet-id="1301196803300352007" data-partner="rebelmouse"><div style="margin:1em 0">@EmmaAckerley27 @EnvSciTech @AdamsJenniferK @lisaerdle @liisajay @UofTTrashTeam @UofTEarthSci @UofTArtSci Good ques… https://t.co/Zdeb7heCZi</div> — Sam Athey (@Sam Athey)<a href="https://twitter.com/sustainablesam_/statuses/1301196803300352007">1599064467.0</a></blockquote></div>
<p>"While we certainly need more research to fully understand the effects, we also have ample evidence right now to act," Nicholas Mallos, senior director of the <a href="https://oceanconservancy.org/" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">Ocean Conservancy</a>'s Trash Free Seas Program who was not involved with the research, told WIRED.</p>
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The modern global textile and fashion industries rely on many chemical dyes to create patterns and colors, but these often produce toxic wastewater. Engin Akyurt / Pixabay
Fast fashion has been called the second dirtiest industry in the world, next to big oil, and how we color our clothes is a large part of the problem. Now, Colorifix, a UK biotech company founded by Cambridge University scientists, has developed a new way to dye clothes that doesn't harm the planet.
<p><br/></p>
<p>Historically, natural dyes extracted from plants and flowers were used to color fabrics. The production of modern chemical dyes uses more than 8,000 chemicals, solvents and additives to create different colors and effects on fabrics, reported <a href="https://www.worstpolluted.org/projects_reports/display/105">Pure Earth</a> and <a href="https://www.cnn.com/style/article/colorifix-sustainable-dyeing-water-pollution-spc-intl/index.html">CNN</a>. Many, like sulfur, arsenic and formaldehyde, are harmful to wildlife and humans, and end up in industrial <a href="http://www.ecowatch.com/tag/wastewater">wastewater</a> from the dye production process, reported CNN.</p>
<p>In less developed Asian countries, where a large share of today's clothes is produced, weak regulations and/or enforcement allow textile manufacturers to dump toxic substances directly into local waterways, reported CNN. This has caused the dyeing industry to become one of the most environmentally harmful in the world. In fact, according to the UN Environment Program, <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/sustainable-fashion-2646356550.html?rebelltitem=3#rebelltitem3" target="_self">around 20% of global wastewater is generated during textile dyeing and processing.</a></p><p>"When we realized that so much of the pollution comes from something as simple as putting color into our clothes, we thought 'there has to be a better way,'" Colorifix's CEO Orr Yarkoni told <a href="https://www.cnn.com/style/article/colorifix-sustainable-dyeing-water-pollution-spc-intl/index.html" target="_blank">CNN</a>.</p>
<p>According to Yarkoni, Colorifix's new method uses biotechnology and bacteria to eliminate the need for toxic <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/tag/chemicals">chemicals</a> and claims its processes use 90% less water and up to 40% less energy than conventional dyeing, reported CNN.</p><p>Unlike with natural dyeing, Colorifix pigments are not derived straight or extracted from plants or animals. And, unlike with chemical dyeing, they don't use anything hazardous in the process, explained Yarkoni in a CNN video. </p><p>Instead, Colorifix "copies nature's processes in a lab setting, by replicating the 'DNA message' that codes for color in an organism," according to CNN. This tricks the genetically-modified bacteria to create and fill up with those exact same colors.</p><p>"So what we can do is take a feather off a parrot, scrape a few cells off ... and in those cells, look for the DNA message 'make red,'" Yarkoni told CNN. "We can then put that same message into our microorganism that will make that same red that the parrot makes the same way that the parrot makes it."</p>
<p>Yarkoni's team then duplicates the dyed bacterial cells in a fermenting machine, feeding them sugar molasses and nitrogen — byproducts from the agricultural industry, <a href="https://www.labiotech.eu/biotech-of-the-week/colorifix-dye-synthetic-biology/" target="_blank">LA BioTech</a> reported. The cells duplicate themselves every 25 minutes. The fermentation process which duplicates the bacteria is similar to beer, but instead of making alcohol, Colorifix makes pigments, <a href="https://www.cnn.com/style/article/colorifix-sustainable-dyeing-water-pollution-spc-intl/index.html" target="_blank">CNN</a> reported. </p><p>In an industry-first, the dyed bacteria are then applied onto the fabric directly and heated until they burst, releasing their dye onto the fabric, <a href="https://www.labiotech.eu/biotech-of-the-week/colorifix-dye-synthetic-biology/" target="_blank">LA BioTech</a> reported. The cell membranes then wash off but the color stays. </p><p>"What we're doing is not just providing a new pigment. We're providing a new way of getting the pigment into the fiber," Yarkoni told LA BioTech.</p>
<p>This new way of applying dyes to fabrics is more efficient and environmentally-beneficial because it removes the middle step of isolating dyes from microbes and applying them to textiles, which is water- and chemical-intensive, Colorifix told <a href="https://www.cnn.com/style/article/colorifix-sustainable-dyeing-water-pollution-spc-intl/index.html" target="_blank">CNN</a>.</p><p>Yarkoni also touted the additional benefit of reducing fashion's huge carbon footprint from shipping. Currently, <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/tips-sustainable-wardrobe-2634726552.html" target="_self">the industry produces more greenhouse gas emissions per year than all international airline flights and maritime shipping trips combined</a>. </p><p>Rather than shipping large amounts of dye, Colorifix can send five grams of color-packed bacteria to a dyehouse, and the microorganisms will multiply within 10 days to the point where the factory can produce 50 tonnes of dye solution a day, according to <a href="https://www.cnn.com/style/article/colorifix-sustainable-dyeing-water-pollution-spc-intl/index.html" target="_blank">CNN</a>.</p>
<p>Competitor PILI, a French startup creating ready-to-use dyes from plant sugars and microbes, critiqued Colorifix's "grow your own" approach to dyeing because dyehouses will need to buy fermenting equipment and receive training on the process, CNN reported. These hurdles could create resistance to making the switch to sustainable dyes, Pili claimed, CNN reported. Other industry experts worried about the regulatory issues surrounding the transport of live microbes safely. </p><p>Colorifix has been hugely successful and received backing from Swedish fashion giant H&M. Colorifix has more customers than it can handle, and launched its first industrial trial at a Portuguese dyehouse last month, CNN reported. </p><p>"I truly believe that in the future, a very large proportion of our industry — if not all of it — will be based on these biological principles," Yarkoni told CNN.</p>
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Like many other plant-based foods and products, CBD oil is one dietary supplement where "organic" labels are very important to consumers. However, there are little to no regulations within the hemp industry when it comes to deeming a product as organic, which makes it increasingly difficult for shoppers to find the best CBD oil products available on the market.
<p>Here you can learn about the importance of organic hemp oil, why it's better for the environment, and which CBD companies actually make trustworthy products with sustainable farming processes. origins which weigh heavily on many consumers who want to buy a product that's produced in the best way possible for not only themselves to ingest, but for the environment as well through sustainable farming methods. </p><h2>What Is CBD Oil?</h2><p>First things first, CBD stands for cannabidiol, and it's a cannabinoid found within cannabis sativa plants. This plant compound is believed to have many potential benefits, and it is primarily derived from hemp plants via a CO2 extraction process. </p><p>Since CBD is extracted from industrial hemp, which contains only trace amounts of THC (the psychoactive component in cannabis plants), this means that CBD won't make you feel high like marijuana, which has much higher levels of THC that causes psychoactive effects. Instead, the effects of CBD are much more subtle and promote a general sense of calm and relaxation in most users.</p><h2>What Makes a CBD Oil Organic?</h2><p>In terms of organic labels, perhaps the most important (and prominent) certification comes from the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA). This government organization has been labeling foods as "organic" for many years, but what exactly does this certification entail? Essentially, a label indicating that a product is "USDA Organic" or "Certified Organic" means that at least 95% of the ingredients are obtained from organic sources.</p><p>For a crop to be considered organic by the USDA, it must be grown without the use of industrial solvents, irradiation, genetic engineering (GMOs), synthetic pesticides, or chemical fertilizer. Instead, farmers rely on natural substances and <a href="https://www.usda.gov/media/blog/2012/03/22/organic-101-what-usda-organic-label-means" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">mechanical, physical, or biologically based farming</a> techniques to cultivate healthy and organic crops.</p><p>Before the passage of the 2018 Farm Bill, no hemp-derived products could be dubbed as "certified organic" since the hemp plant and its extracts were still categorized as a Schedule I Controlled Substance. However, it's still difficult for CBD companies to obtain a USDA certified organic label for their products due to the legal grey area that still surrounds CBD extracts. </p><p>Because of these challenges, and due to the fact that industrial hemp has only recently become an agricultural crop, very few CBD oils are USDA certified organic. Rather, many CBD products contain hemp extracts from plants that were grown in organic conditions but may not be federally certified.</p><h2>What are the Best Organic CBD Oil Brands?</h2><p><em>Each product featured here has been independently selected by the writer. If you make a purchase using the links included, we may earn commission.</em></p><em><br></em>
<h2>Why Organic Hemp Oil Matters</h2><p>Hemp is a unique plant, not only for its rich cannabinoid content, but also for its ability to absorb a wide variety of components in soil. But this trait poses great risks when it comes to the creation of CBD products derived from hemp.</p><p>Because hemp has a high capacity for compound uptake, this means that the plants can retain <a href="https://www.remedyreview.com/industry/lab-test-results/" target="_blank">harmful chemicals like pesticides</a>, heavy metals, and other residual solvents. This is especially true when it comes to synthetic chemicals that are more toxic to humans, and difficult to remove once they have been absorbed by the hemp plant.</p><p>Organic farming practices help reduce the risk of hemp crops absorbing harsh chemicals that may later end up in CBD oil after extraction. When you're taking CBD as a wellness supplement to help alleviate your symptoms or improve your overall well-being, the last thing you want is to ingest compounds that might negatively outweigh the benefits of CBD. This is an important reason to look for third party lab test results when shopping for CBD products since these certificates of analysis can show the full cannabinoid and terpene profile of a hemp extract, as well as test results that search for the presence of any residual solvents.</p><p>In addition to creating a better end product, organic farming practices are also better for the environment. Sustainable and organic farming methods may <a href="https://www.helpguide.org/articles/healthy-eating/organic-foods.htm" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">reduce pollution, conserve water, reduce soil erosion, increase soil fertility, and use less energy</a>. The use of natural pest deterrents as opposed to chemical pesticides is also better for nearby animal populations and ecosystems.</p><h3>Organic vs. Natural</h3><p>While there are only a select few companies offering certified organic ingredients in their products, almost every brand in the CBD market creates "natural" products. The term "all-natural" or "plant-based" does not mean that a product is organic, and since hemp oil is a natural derivative of hemp plants, these products are often referred to as all-natural. However, there are some synthetic CBD oils that should be avoided because they are chemically constructed and may produce unwanted side effects that are not caused by naturally derived CBD extracts.</p><h2>What are the Benefits of Organic CBD Oil?</h2><p>There's a long list of potential CBD oil health benefits, and some of the most common wellness advantages include:</p><ul class="ee-ul"><li><a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2503660/" target="_blank">Chronic pain relief</a></li><li><a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4604171/" target="_blank">Anti-anxiety effects</a></li><li>Better sleep</li><li><a href="https://www.psychologytoday.com/us/blog/inner-source/201901/cbd-oil-mental-health-should-you-take-it-too" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">Improvements in mood</a></li><li>Internal balance and regulation</li></ul><p>When dealing with pain, inflammation, sleep issues, and mental health struggles, it can be hard to find sufficient treatment options. The use of certain prescriptions can cause unwanted side effects, yet they are often the only solution for patients with these medical conditions. In search of other therapies, people have started to flock towards CBD oil as an alternative remedy for a variety of conditions. However, it should be noted that CBD products are not approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), and you should seek your doctor's advice before using CBD if you have a serious medical condition.</p><h2>Look at the Labels Before You Buy CBD Oil</h2><p>When you go online to buy CBD oil, you'll quickly realize there is an overwhelming number of brands that are saturating the market. It can be difficult to determine which products are truly as good as they make themselves out to be. Always look for up-to-date third-party lab tests so you know you are getting a great product, and don't hesitate to contact the brand if you have any additional questions. And if you're intent on purchasing 100% organic CBD oil, it's best to look for certified products or brands that are held to strict regulatory standards.</p><p><strong>Melena Gurganus </strong>is the Reviews Editor at EcoWatch. She is passionate health and wellness and her writing aims to help others find products they can trust. Her work has been featured in publications such as Health, Shape, Huffington Post, Cannabis Business Times, and Bustle.<br></p>
Spruce
<img type="lazy-image" data-runner-src="https://assets.rebelmouse.io/eyJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiIsInR5cCI6IkpXVCJ9.eyJpbWFnZSI6Imh0dHBzOi8vYXNzZXRzLnJibC5tcy8yNDY4NjI3OC9vcmlnaW4uanBnIiwiZXhwaXJlc19hdCI6MTYyOTM2NzgzOX0.axY0HjeqRctJsR_KmDLctzDpUBLBN-oNIdqaXDb4caQ/img.jpg?width=980" id="774be" class="rm-shortcode" data-rm-shortcode-id="8379f35b1ca8a86d0e61b7d4bfc8b46e" data-rm-shortcode-name="rebelmouse-image" alt="spruce organic cbd oil" data-width="710" data-height="959" /><p>As one of the best brands in the business, Spruce CBD is well-known for its potent CBD oils that feature many additional beneficial phytocannabinoids. This brand works with two family-owned, sustainably focused farms in the USA (one located in Kentucky and one in North Carolina) to create its organic, small product batches. The max potency Spruce CBD oil contains 2400mg of full-spectrum CBD extract, but the brand also offers a lower strength tincture with 750mg of CBD in total.</p>
$89
CBDistillery
<img type="lazy-image" data-runner-src="https://assets.rebelmouse.io/eyJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiIsInR5cCI6IkpXVCJ9.eyJpbWFnZSI6Imh0dHBzOi8vYXNzZXRzLnJibC5tcy8yNDcwMjkzNC9vcmlnaW4uanBnIiwiZXhwaXJlc19hdCI6MTYyMTU4OTM4Nn0.ypRdeDSBcE87slYrFfVrRwtJ2qGIK6FD5jBB4pndTMo/img.jpg?width=980" id="b473b" class="rm-shortcode" data-rm-shortcode-id="9930b53c9d58cb49774640a61c3e3e75" data-rm-shortcode-name="rebelmouse-image" alt="cbdistillery cbd oil" data-width="1244" data-height="1244" /><p>All of the products from CBDistillery are <a href="https://ushempauthority.org/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">U.S. Hemp Authority Certified</a>, and for good reason. The company only uses non-GMO and pesticide-free industrial hemp that's grown organically on Colorado farms. Its hemp oils are some of the most affordable CBD products on the market, yet they still maintain a high standard of quality. CBDistillery has a wide variety of CBD potencies across its product line (ranging from 500mg to 5000mg per bottle) and offers both full-spectrum and broad-spectrum CBD oils to give customers a completely thc-free option.</p>
$35
FAB CBD
<img type="lazy-image" data-runner-src="https://assets.rebelmouse.io/eyJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiIsInR5cCI6IkpXVCJ9.eyJpbWFnZSI6Imh0dHBzOi8vYXNzZXRzLnJibC5tcy8yNDY4NjIyNS9vcmlnaW4uanBnIiwiZXhwaXJlc19hdCI6MTY2NDIwOTEyMn0.MlTjz096FJ0ev_-soK7_Z-FeQeJczWoeh9Qi9SSkHsY/img.jpg?width=980" id="04b26" class="rm-shortcode" data-rm-shortcode-id="76aa4862f44603242e318982acea6646" data-rm-shortcode-name="rebelmouse-image" alt="fab cbd oil" data-width="800" data-height="800" /><p>For an organic CBD oil that has it all, FAB CBD offers plenty of variety for any type of consumer. All of its products are made with zero pesticides and extracted from organically grown Colorado industrial hemp. FAB CBD oil comes in five all-natural flavors (mint, vanilla, berry, citrus, and natural) and is also available in four strengths (300, 600, 1200, and 2400mg per bottle).</p>
$39
NuLeaf Naturals
<img type="lazy-image" data-runner-src="https://assets.rebelmouse.io/eyJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiIsInR5cCI6IkpXVCJ9.eyJpbWFnZSI6Imh0dHBzOi8vYXNzZXRzLnJibC5tcy8yNDY4NjIxOS9vcmlnaW4uanBnIiwiZXhwaXJlc19hdCI6MTY1NzExNTgyMX0.D6qMGYllKTsVhEkQ-L_GzpDHVu60a-tJKcio7M1Ssmc/img.jpg?width=980" id="94e4a" class="rm-shortcode" data-rm-shortcode-id="3609a52479675730893a45a82a03c71d" data-rm-shortcode-name="rebelmouse-image" alt="nuleaf naturals organic cbd oil" data-width="600" data-height="600" /><p>As an industry-leading brand, it comes as no surprise that NuLeaf Naturals sources its CBD extract from organic hemp plants grown on licensed farms in Colorado. The comany's CBD oils only contain two ingredients: USDA certified organic hemp seed oil and full spectrum hemp extract.</p><p>NuLeaf Naturals uses one proprietary CBD oil formula for all of its products, so you will get the same CBD potency in each tincture (60mg per mL), but can purchase different bottle sizes depending on how much you intend to use.</p>
$38.50
Charlotte's Web
<img type="lazy-image" data-runner-src="https://assets.rebelmouse.io/eyJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiIsInR5cCI6IkpXVCJ9.eyJpbWFnZSI6Imh0dHBzOi8vYXNzZXRzLnJibC5tcy8yNDcwMjk3NS9vcmlnaW4uanBnIiwiZXhwaXJlc19hdCI6MTY0MzQ0NjM4N30.SaQ85SK10-MWjN3PwHo2RqpiUBdjhD0IRnHKTqKaU7Q/img.jpg?width=980" id="84700" class="rm-shortcode" data-rm-shortcode-id="a2174067dcc0c4094be25b3472ce08c8" data-rm-shortcode-name="rebelmouse-image" alt="charlottes web cbd oil" data-width="1244" data-height="1244" /><p>Perhaps one of the most well-known brands in the CBD landscape, Charlotte's Web has been growing sustainable hemp plants for several years. The company is currently in the process of achieving official USDA Organic Certification, but it already practices organic and sustainable cultivation techniques to enhance the overall health of the soil and the hemp plants themselves, which creates some of the highest quality CBD extracts. Charlotte's Web offers CBD oils in a range of different concentration options, and some even come in a few flavor options such as chocolate mint, orange blossom, and lemon twist.</p>
$60
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Urban community garden composting seen in New York City. Education Images / Universal Images Group / Getty Images
New methods to reuse "fast fashion" clothes, recycling of construction materials, and adoption of electric school buses could all become possible in New York City under far-reaching new climate legislation introduced Thursday by City Council Speaker Corey Johnson.
<p>The proposals include measures to encourage New Yorkers to use the city's composting program to cut down on the 3.1 million tons of garbage, one-third of which is food waste, households produce each year — measures that could eventually become mandatory, the legislation says. Johnson, who is running to replace Mayor Bill de Blasio in 2021, said he also would push proposals to convert Rikers Island into a renewable energy hub and push for solutions to protect the city's shorelines from sea level rise. </p><h4>For a deeper dive:</h4><p><a href="https://newsletter.climatenexus.org/e2t/c/*W6G9GSC49SF75V9bGlz1-fkdN0/*W20C3N91X3PttW4V9SX74sF2lF0/5/f18dQhb0S1Xq7w2QxfSmLh1J0V9sVb1XsJ1k8-yyW8K7rSY62Sq51W5z5SSS5jX9CCN6vsjGwXLgF0W5Mdj_l2yry8DW52FCC556tdQDW7W3vYw8tRCC8W7zpcFL5WNSdwW6ZYw2D5hjbs3N7z2bsJYXhtkW4d2sLM63ndKNW6LJzTW6bj8DWW5VVs2v21r3tmW826KRz1PfXSqN6vjRhbGBbWlW5T6R324hptNlVGC1Gj7kDf3jV2L6Sr5kzG92W6CcRYk5hN8BcW8lJ0Sz2Lr3V_W4M41sj2R973JW5jML1h48cPF5VkjsfH61v5HRVsyTgd32HTDWW8sl22P78RrvbN7tG8hm2KW5lW21rfQn7mJ64_W5p7xjk8V7_3gW3MDYVL2G6X0YW4cjrQC3VvWJtN87WmspTHt1FW3pH21r75nQ7FW3Qy98h6Fp0GgW6vnYs086hQ7tW7RKT2s3cPzs9W3Z3W_g7XY074W2KBl_S2ytQ9zW6-_3fW4S4BvxMZB7dKn9CvXW1cZByP22ZZRzW8Zjdk090k_p2VjJfmW6p1H9xW5R1Xj-4rKklNW5JrxlD1hjLF7W901cZ44qMxp20" target="_blank">NY Post</a>, <a href="https://newsletter.climatenexus.org/e2t/c/*W6G9GSC49SF75V9bGlz1-fkdN0/*W2Nfn0F5rZ-0ZW5SxxLD8Sf69T0/5/f18dQhb0S1Wd2RMFdXVWWdCJ5VRw7gN3hVZwTmWF_0W6yys4H4VR406N2SdT3tqn08tW7L6qS55pVHyKW7yPvFj6z66HDVzlyjr1tGgFdW73Rn5Z7b2DxfW4MQzzJ4rSDNSW8N8Plv1LWBJ5W1zC6zj5Ptms2W8q0GCN3Md4MZW43sPhS7ZH9rrW7TBYCw6xvwfjVrJZh57mZB0jW2YYpG77FYxC7VWxqtG4SKG7BW1RWntN8-6ZbTW7Y3yg01pvm4yW71tg0g3Knn8XW5krlmK8qb4ygW1Y8yJP19XB30N7tzZVfR5Y66N3_qwXG18v9-W33sCGR3vTg9fW5Z_dLg4RPkY2VFsH658fnTqgW8BlH9s3KpxYtVJ-1Dl6t85L4W1SYSYQ4pkzGNW7qPs6f75Qh1_W5p069F3Qxm6-W9hRFRZ3Fmhn2W7sgTZT222kXyN74CwM5JnZ-SW99V7Bp3NLbk8W4k_4gX7lsrPpW2069-P5dy9k9W6l1lp898v7YgW4w589S8H95wyW6cKtwJ3VZ2dpW2grjF_8jFK9wW372D-z7cnRb1W2j0lqc1_N72GW6_L_RZ4D5-RTW638-pK3GV232W7MhyTd6h3hkSW8sgkpy958V9_W4FZ2Sz345nftW6-Rglm8gn5K5W2fjL5H397c12W4gz_4N9cgT1YdbBM8N02" target="_blank">Politico NY</a>, <a href="https://newsletter.climatenexus.org/e2t/c/*W6G9GSC49SF75V9bGlz1-fkdN0/*W70Cb9K6tjq77W4CnHSS7T_zrm0/5/f18dQhb0S3kg252mBcT2s3319JyY0N2lxSGljSRgBW54y7tw4_NpBFW1PJtx26jwdHQW6QVV0v79khScW37Tjnf5kRN5TW3ZvRby9h8-JSVmq_dQ7HcFpBW8hqcqx8-Ml35W20NcBP20ZQySW5HrWwp8yf_q4N3nyGX7V-gy4MBCqTSnMsD1M1xgtZYx1GmW6dgYCd8ydwbbW8lhs-t6JSr63W7Zc0mV3n2LYYN1jqHCsTQ86CW7tlylG38W-qpW2sxR242XPcTmW6Q66VG8NDCPYW4bWry91z9TCwW17cKG61m14bfW2yRZ4c6RLTN2W4K48jJ4MQpXCW6VTmvL4kx1q9W2TR3hW7s1gFxW8Ct0J55jr7g8W3fTLFk7qMwxKW1ZKfbg6H3qd1W3dfjKx6m-msDW1lqQ635sZjs2N5KzbkH-5r2lW7-_7nV1P9tC6W10G1kT89vWZ8W5QFSWB7JtM3fW53P-3t8d4dRsW64yKmV2ljmF8N67tvs4ZwtgBVx5pqV87dLHwW5Rc61g6RcmX1W5yhK-Z502rHjW28C7pv1WV80wW2QVB1V7wTg_L111" target="_blank">New York Times</a></p><p><em>For more </em><a href="http://ecowatch.com/climate-change-news/" target="_blank"><em>climate change</em></a><em> and </em><a href="http://ecowatch.com/business/renewables/" target="_blank"><em>clean energy</em></a><em> news, you can follow Climate Nexus on </em><a href="https://twitter.com/ClimateNexus" target="_blank"><em>Twitter</em></a><em> and </em><a href="https://www.facebook.com/ClimateNexus/" target="_blank"><em>Facebook</em></a><em>, and sign up for daily </em><a href="http://climatenexus.us4.list-manage1.com/subscribe?u=d1f5797e59060083034310930&id=7c84c08aaa" target="_blank"><em>Hot News</em></a><em>.</em></p>
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Joaquin Phoenix, winner of the Actor in a Leading Role award for "Joker," poses in the press room during the 92nd Annual Academy Awards at Hollywood and Highland on Feb. 9 in Hollywood, California. Rachel Luna / Getty Images
From sustainable fashion to vegan appetizers, green was the new gold at the 92nd Academy Awards Sunday.
<p>The Academy followed this year's <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/golden-globes-vegan-2644237946.html" target="_self">Golden Globes</a>, Critics Choice Awards and Screen Actors Guild Awards in embracing plant-based menus, while stars spoke up for <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/tag/animal-rights" target="_self">animal rights</a> and recycled past red carpet gowns.</p><p>"The Academy is an organization of storytellers from around the world, and we owe our global membership a commitment to supporting the planet," the group wrote in a Jan. 27 <a href="https://www.oscars.org/sites/oscars/files/92-gov-ball-sustainability.pdf" target="_blank">statement</a> reported by <a href="https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/food-and-drink/oscars-2020-vegan-luncheon-food-plant-based-governors-ball-a9305421.html" target="_blank">The Independent</a>. "For the past decade, the Academy has been committed to reducing its carbon footprint. For the past seven years, the Oscars show has had a net zero carbon imprint. We continue to expand our sustainability plan with the ultimate goal of becoming carbon neutral."</p>
Vegan Menus
<p>No dinner is served at the Oscars itself, but the Academy committed to serving only plant-based snacks in the lobby before the show, as well as at annual Oscar Nominees Luncheon in January.</p><div id="bbf31" class="rm-shortcode" data-rm-shortcode-id="3d1540b57575d7e46372a8872d091e2c"><blockquote class="twitter-tweet twitter-custom-tweet" data-twitter-tweet-id="1221894466019024896" data-partner="rebelmouse"><div style="margin:1em 0">Here’s the plant-based menu for today’s Oscar Nominees Luncheon. #oscars https://t.co/02NQtYp2ls</div> — George Pennacchio (@George Pennacchio)<a href="https://twitter.com/abc7george/statuses/1221894466019024896">1580157317.0</a></blockquote></div><p>The menu at the Governors Ball after-party, meanwhile, was 70 percent vegan and 30 percent vegetarian, meat and fish. But the Academy was mindful of the environment when selecting its animal-based dishes.</p><p>"All food served will be responsibly sourced and sustainably farmed. All fish served are listed on the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch recommendation list," the Academy wrote in its statement.</p><p>Vegan cookbook author and blogger Sam Turnball <a href="https://www.salon.com/2020/02/09/vegan-plant-based-diet-impossible-burger-treeline-oscars/" target="_blank">told Salon</a> that the shift towards vegan eating both at awards shows and in everyday life reflected growing awareness of the <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/climate-change/" target="_self">climate crisis</a>.</p><p>"For a long time, vegans were seen as weirdos," Turnball said. "But now, with a ton of amazing documentaries, books, and media it has become more widely understood that being vegan or eating a plant-based diet is beneficial to the environment, our own health, and of course the animals."</p><p>The Academy considered other environmental concerns as well: It also pledged to eliminate <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/tag/plastic" target="_self">plastic</a> bottles at all of its events.</p>
Joaquin Phoenix Speaks for the Cows
<p>Joaquin Phoenix, who <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/film/2020/feb/10/joaquin-phoenix-wins-best-actor-oscar-for-joker" target="_blank">continued his awards-season sweep</a> when he won the Oscar for Best Actor for his role in Joker Sunday, has also been victorious in encouraging various award shows this year to go vegan. He has been credited with proposing the idea to the Screen Actors Guild and the Hollywood Foreign Press Association (HFPA), which organizes the Golden Globes, according to Salon. And he also convinced the Hollywood agency WME to give up animal products at its pre-Oscar party, <a href="https://pagesix.com/2020/02/08/after-globes-victory-joaquin-phoenix-persuades-oscars-to-go-vegan/" target="_blank">Page Six reported</a>.</p><p>In addition to his behind-the-scenes lobbying, Phoenix has used his acceptance speeches this year to highlight environmental issues. At the Golden Globes, he thanked the HFPA for "recognizing and acknowledging the link between animal agriculture and climate change."</p><p>In his Oscar speech Sunday, Phoenix said he was grateful for the opportunity people in the entertainment industry had to "use our voice for the voiceless," as <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/film/2020/feb/10/joaquin-phoenixs-oscars-speech-in-full" target="_blank">The Guardian reported</a>. He then went on to give an impassioned defense of human and animal rights:</p><blockquote><em>I think at times we feel or are made to feel that we champion different causes. But for me, I see commonality. I think, whether we're talking about gender inequality or racism or queer rights or indigenous rights or animal rights, we're talking about the fight against injustice.</em><br><br><em>We're talking about the fight against the belief that one nation, one people, one race, one gender, one species, has the right to dominate, use and control another with impunity.</em><br><br><em>I think we've become very disconnected from the natural world. Many of us are guilty of an egocentric world view, and we believe that we're the centre of the universe. We go into the natural world and we plunder it for its resources. We feel entitled to artificially inseminate a cow and steal her baby, even though her cries of anguish are unmistakeable. Then we take her milk that's intended for her calf and we put it in our coffee and our cereal.</em></blockquote>His words won him the praise of <a href="https://www.peta.org/" target="_blank">People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals</a> (PETA), which retweeted his speech.<div id="34855" class="rm-shortcode" data-rm-shortcode-id="ce2b62e3d992e20478852d842d9430d7"><blockquote class="twitter-tweet twitter-custom-tweet" data-twitter-tweet-id="1226723427945345026" data-partner="rebelmouse"><div style="margin:1em 0">JAW DROP.
Sending a HUGE congratulations to #vegan Joaquin Phoenix for winning Best Actor!
Joaquin has dedicated… https://t.co/cwCnB5QxOI</div> — PETA (@PETA)<a href="https://twitter.com/peta/statuses/1226723427945345026">1581308631.0</a></blockquote></div>
Sustainable Fashion
<p>Not all Oscar guests used words to make a statement.</p><p><a href="https://www.glamour.com/story/oscars-2020-sustainable-fashion-trend" target="_blank">Glamour writer</a> Talia Abbas named sustainable fashion the "red carpet's best trend."</p><p>Actress Saoirse Ronan recycled the black part of her Gucci dress from another dress she had worn at the British Academy of Film and Television Arts Awards last week. And actress Elizabeth Banks wore a red Badgley Mischka dress she had donned for the Vanity Fair Oscars Party in 2004.</p><p>"It's gorgeous and it fits…so why not wear it again?!" she wrote in an Instagram post, going on to explain that she was trying to raise awareness about "the importance of <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/tag/sustainability" target="_self">sustainability</a> in fashion and consumerism as it relates to climate change, production & consumption, ocean pollution, labor & women."</p><div id="6c307" class="rm-shortcode" data-rm-shortcode-id="2d488bd865e3b23f1288ff948c37800f"><blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-version="4" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"> <div style="padding:8px;"> <div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"> <div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAAGFBMVEUiIiI9PT0eHh4gIB4hIBkcHBwcHBwcHBydr+JQAAAACHRSTlMABA4YHyQsM5jtaMwAAADfSURBVDjL7ZVBEgMhCAQBAf//42xcNbpAqakcM0ftUmFAAIBE81IqBJdS3lS6zs3bIpB9WED3YYXFPmHRfT8sgyrCP1x8uEUxLMzNWElFOYCV6mHWWwMzdPEKHlhLw7NWJqkHc4uIZphavDzA2JPzUDsBZziNae2S6owH8xPmX8G7zzgKEOPUoYHvGz1TBCxMkd3kwNVbU0gKHkx+iZILf77IofhrY1nYFnB/lQPb79drWOyJVa/DAvg9B/rLB4cC+Nqgdz/TvBbBnr6GBReqn/nRmDgaQEej7WhonozjF+Y2I/fZou/qAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"> </div></div><p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B8X5nEBldoJ/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_top"></a></p> </div></blockquote></div><p>Actresses Kaitlyn Dever and Léa Seydoux wore new Louis Vuitton gowns that were nevertheless ethically made as part of the <a href="https://www.rcgdglobal.com/" target="_blank">Red Carpet Green Dress</a> initiative, which <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/sustainable-fashion-oscars-academy-awards-2629971316.html" target="_self">has been promoting</a> ethical, sustainable fashion at the Oscars for 11 years.</p>
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UK Shoppers Spend More Than $3 Billion on Barely Worn Holiday Party Outfits
17 December 2019
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Only 24 percent of adults surveyed knew that sparkly party dresses were plastic-based. svetikd / E+ / Getty Images
It turns out there are environmental consequences to donning gay apparel this holiday season.
<p>The UK charity <a href="https://www.hubbub.org.uk/" target="_blank">Hubbub</a> conducted a survey of 3,006 adults and found that, while Britons will spend £2.4 billion (approximately $3.17 billion) on outfits for holiday parties this year, one in five of them will only wear the outfit once, <a href="https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/fashion-news/a30238371/uk-shoppers-24billion-on-christmas-partywear/" target="_blank">Harper's Bazaar reported Monday</a>. And, according to <a href="https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/christmas-party-outfits-hubbubb-spending-price-a9248236.html#r3z-addoor" target="_blank">The Independent</a>, most of the outfits won't be worn more than three times.</p><p>The clothing itself also poses environmental risks. The charity further looked at 169 party dresses from 17 online and brick-and-mortar shops and found that 94 percent of them were made entirely or mostly from <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/tag/plastics" target="_self">plastic</a>. Yet only 24 percent of the adults surveyed knew that sparkly party dresses were plastic-based, according to Harper's Bazaar.</p><p>But that doesn't mean you can't deck yourself out for the festive season, Hubbub project coordinator Sarah Divall told <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/dec/16/uk-will-spend-24bn-on-christmas-clothes-that-barely-get-worn-hubbub-survey" target="_blank">The Guardian</a>.</p><p>"Vintage and pre-loved clothing has never been so on trend and it's only going to get bigger as people realise the massive environmental impact of the fashion industry," she said. "Going green doesn't mean you can't dress up. There are so many eco-friendly options out there now, including clothes swaps, renting, pre-loved and charity stores, so you can look good and save money without damaging the planet."</p><p>Indeed, the survey found that younger people are already starting to follow this advice: 36 percent of 16-to-24-year-olds choose to exchange outfits with friends and 30 percent buy from charity shops.</p><p>This could also save shoppers money. UK residents currently spend an average of £73.90 (approximately $97.45) per person on holiday outfits, with men spending an average of £88.14 (approximately $116.23) each and women spending an average of £63.12 (approximately $83.24).</p><p>The problem also extends to so-called ugly sweaters. In an earlier report, Hubbub found that two out of five Christmas sweaters are only worn once.</p>
<div id="4f248" class="rm-shortcode" data-rm-shortcode-id="MJRT571576662492"><blockquote class="twitter-tweet twitter-custom-tweet" data-twitter-tweet-id="1202864021763964928" data-partner="rebelmouse"><div style="margin:1em 0">12 million #christmas jumpers will be bought this year by Brits 🎄. And a whopping 2 in 5 of these will only be worn… https://t.co/B9nlbj6WuI</div> — Hubbub (@Hubbub)<a href="https://twitter.com/hubbubUK/statuses/1202864021763964928">1575620105.0</a></blockquote></div>
<p>The reports are part of Hubbub's attempt to raise awareness about <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/tag/fast-fashion" target="_self">fast fashion</a>.</p><p>"The main aim of fast fashion is to make and sell many clothes as quickly and cheaply as possible. Brands who sell fast fashion items encourage shoppers to be frequent buyers by dropping new lines almost weekly at low prices, making shoppers feel the pressure to buy more," the charity <a href="https://www.hubbub.org.uk/blog/what-is-fast-fashion" target="_blank">explained</a>.</p><p>This has major environmental costs:</p><ol><li>The fashion industry consumes more energy than aviation and shipping put together.</li><li>Making one pair of jeans and one cotton T-shirt requires 20,000 liters (approximately 5,283 gallons) of water.</li><li>More than 11 million clothing items end up in UK landfills weekly.</li><li>One-third of all microplastics in the <a href="http://www.ecowatch.com/tag/oceans">ocean</a> get there by rubbing off of clothes washed in machines.</li></ol><p>This isn't just a problem in the UK. Author Adam Minter wrote a book called <em>Secondhand </em>about what happens to donated items. His research gave him insights into the environmental costs of consumerism.</p><p>"The one thing we do know is that the biggest impact of most products is the manufacturing side," he told NPR in an <a href="https://www.npr.org/2019/12/04/784702588/the-best-thing-you-can-do-is-not-buy-more-stuff-says-secondhand-expert" target="_blank">interview this month</a>. "So if you want to reduce the environmental impact of your consumption, the best way to do that is to not manufacture more stuff. In that sense, the best thing you can do is not buy more stuff."</p>
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A man and his dog walk past an H&M store in Stockholm, Sweden on March 11, 2014. Melanie Stetson Freeman / The Christian Science Monitor via Getty Images
By Ashutosh Pandey
H&M's flagship store at the Sergels Torg square in Stockholm is back in business after a months-long refurbishment. But it's not exactly business as usual here.
<p>In one corner of the store replete with plants and trees, H&M is offering some of its customers the possibility to rent rather than buy from its popular party and wedding collection — the latest bid by the budget fashion chain, which has already been <a href="https://www.dw.com/en/hm-wants-your-old-clothes/a-16630550" target="_blank">collecting used clothes at its stores,</a> to boost its environmental credentials.</p><p>The move comes as the fashion industry, <a href="https://www.dw.com/en/can-plastic-recycling-solve-the-fast-fashion-problem/a-44197074" target="_blank">especially fast-fashion companies such as H&M and Zara,</a> faces growing criticism over its carbon footprint and energy use. The industry is one of the biggest emitters of greenhouse gases and producers of global <a href="http://www.ecowatch.com/tag/wastewater" target="_self">wastewater</a>.</p><p>"Today, we all can agree that <a href="http://www.ecowatch.com/tag/fast-fashion" target="_self">fast fashion</a> is not a sustainable business model. That's exactly why we want to take circularity to the next level," Pascal Brun, the head of sustainability at H&M, told DW. "The clothing rental fits perfectly with our goal. It is something we have been wanting to try for quite some time."</p>
<h2>Concept Stores</h2><p>H&M's new service is limited to a selected collection of party dresses and skirts and is available only to customers who have signed up for its loyalty program. Customers can rent garments for around 350 Swedish kronor (€33, $37) a week.</p><p>The concept store also features clothing repair services, a coffee shop and a beauty bar, where customers can get their hair, nails and makeup done.</p><p>H&M is setting up new concept stores as it seeks to boost profit amid <a href="https://www.dw.com/en/hm-sits-on-billions-of-unsold-clothes-as-profits-plummet/a-43175750" target="_blank">slowing sales and growing inventories.</a> An H&M boutique store in Berlin, which opened in October, offers yoga classes, a café and space for external brands.</p><p>"H&M is in 'test-and-learn' mode and will, in due course, look to scale one of its new concepts," RBC retail analyst Richard Chamberlain said in a note to clients.</p>
<h2>Business Viability</h2><p>The Swedish retailer plans to study the rental service over the next three months before taking it to other markets. Brun says the response so far has been "tremendous" with slots required to trial dresses for rent almost fully booked for December.</p><p>But there are some sceptics of H&M's plan, who question its business viability.</p><p>"I can't see that the kind of labor cost involved in a rental model at those price points really makes sense," Credit Suisse analyst Simon Irwin was quoted by Bloomberg as saying.</p><p>Brun says it's too early to make a call on the rental service's profitability prospects.</p><p>"We have done our business case before launching it and hopefully it will show that it's successful," Brun said and added that the company could eventually bring its rental business online.</p>
<h2>Fear of Missing Out?</h2><p>H&M's foray into clothing rentals comes at a time the retailer and other fast-fashion chains are being threatened by a mushrooming of platforms selling and renting secondhand clothes and accessories.</p><p>The secondhand apparel market, excluding clothing rentals, was valued at $24 billion in 2018 and is expected to grow to $64 billion by 2028, according to online fashion resale platform thredUP and retail analytics firm Global Data. By comparison, the fast-fashion market, which was worth $35 billion in 2018, is expected to only touch $44 billion.</p><p>H&M, which is yet to get on the resale bandwagon, owns a majority stake in a Swedish company, Sellpy, that offers a platform for people to buy and sell secondhand clothes and accessories. The Swedish retailer's U.S. rivals, Banana Republic and Urban Outfitters, have already launched clothing rental services.</p><p>"It [the growth in secondhand fashion] comes at a point of time when customers in this part of the world are being responsible and want to be able to consume differently or are being offered to consume differently," Brun said. "We are just here answering to consumer demand."</p>
<p><em>Reposted with permission from <a href="https://www.dw.com/en/hm-tests-renting-clothes-to-boost-environmental-credentials/a-51546103" target="_blank">DW</a>.</em></p>From Your Site Articles
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Brais Seara / Moment / Getty Images
By Amanda Abrams
By now, the word is out: Fashion, particularly "fast fashion," is killing our planet. Low-cost, cheaply made clothes that are designed to be worn briefly until styles change are terrible for the environment.
<p>Over the past decade and a half, consumers have been buying and discarding considerably more outfits. Between 2000 and 2014, <a href="https://www.mckinsey.com/business-functions/sustainability/our-insights/style-thats-sustainable-a-new-fast-fashion-formula" target="_blank">global clothing production doubled</a>, with shoppers purchasing roughly 60 percent more garments; at the same time, the number of times a piece of clothing is worn before it's tossed out dropped by a third. The fashion industry is now solely responsible for 10 percent of the Earth's <a href="https://www.unenvironment.org/news-and-stories/story/putting-brakes-fast-fashion" target="_blank">carbon emissions</a> and 20 percent of its <a href="https://www.unenvironment.org/news-and-stories/story/putting-brakes-fast-fashion" target="_blank">wastewater</a>; it's the second largest polluter of water in the world. And in the end, very few of those clothes are recycled: most of them end up in <a href="https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/assets/downloads/A-New-Textiles-Economy_Full-Report_Updated_1-12-17.pdf" target="_blank">landfills</a>. </p>
<p>Those figures are downright dismal — especially for an industry that markets itself as being about positive feelings and fun.</p><p>But the numbers are no secret, and today a wide range of advocates and organizations are working to hold the industry accountable to improving its track record. Within the field, a few outlier brands have made massive changes in how they do business, and others are banding together in groups such as <a href="https://textileexchange.org/" target="_blank">Textile Exchange</a> and <a href="https://apparelcoalition.org/" target="_blank">Sustainable Apparel Coalition</a> to identify new operating models. </p>
<p>That means consumers have a growing opportunity to make educated decisions, sort the polluters from the companies that are trying to improve, and ultimately push the industry toward greater sustainability.</p><p>The $1.3 trillion apparel industry is complex, though, with inputs that start in the field and may well travel halfway around the world before hanging in your closets. What elements should buyers prioritize?</p><p>"It seems so overwhelming, but it's not as complicated as it seems," Elizabeth Cline said. She's the author of a popular <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Overdressed-Shockingly-High-Cheap-Fashion/dp/1591846544" target="_blank">book</a> about fast fashion and recently released <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Conscious-Closet-Revolutionary-Guide-Looking/dp/1524744301/ref=pd_sbs_14_t_0/132-7762959-5803808?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=1524744301&pd_rd_r=2a23954c-1770-4978-ab1c-72e59aeffdf3&pd_rd_w=1CmKF&pd_rd_wg=JaSRu&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=3FC9SNYWB4YBYF19KXFY&psc=1&refRID=3FC9SNYWB4YBYF19KXFY" target="_blank"><em>The Conscious Closet: The Revolutionary Guide to Looking Good While Doing Good</em></a>. If you're planning to buy a new piece of clothing, the place to start thinking about environmental impacts is the label, she says. After all, the largest portion of the clothing industry's environmental impact is in the manufacturing phase, not retailing or shipping.</p><p>Buyers who dutifully lug canvas bags to the grocery store and would never dream of sipping out of a single-use water bottle might be surprised to learn that <a href="https://friendsoftheearth.uk/plastics/microfibres-plastic-in-our-clothes" target="_blank">more than 60 percent</a> of textiles today include synthetics made from fossil fuels. They're part plastic, that is. And because plastic is cheap and easy to manufacture, it's hard to avoid; even a T-shirt or a pair of jeans might have synthetic material mixed in.</p><p>But not all polyesters are the same. "If you're shopping for synthetic material, look for recycled content. It uses less energy, and no new sources," says Cline. In most cases, that means the fabric — or <a href="https://www.uniguide.com/recycled-shoes-brands/" target="_blank">shoes</a>, in some cases — started out as plastic bottles that were melted down and turned into new materials. Recycled nylon is another new option; Econyl comes from post-consumer waste and has become increasingly popular in clothing.</p><p>Most natural materials can't be recycled; the fibers tend to shorten with processing, so they have to be mixed with virgin material to be viable. But post-consumer cashmere — that is, sweaters made from discarded garments or leftover factory scraps that are then re-spun — has become a thing, purportedly saving grasslands in countries such as Mongolia and China from the ecological destruction caused by cashmere goats.</p>
<p>If you're shopping for cotton or wool clothes, look for a tag that says they were produced organically. That's key: Cotton is grown using huge amounts of pesticides, and wool often requires harsh scouring agents, bleaches, and dyes.</p><p>The makers of rayon, also known as viscose, have often billed the fabric as "natural," and indeed it does come from wood or bamboo. But the raw material may be sourced from old-growth forests, and it requires powerful, poisonous chemicals to be transformed into usable fibers. So when buying rayon, keep an eye out for garments labeled Tencel or lyocell (the former is the brand name; lyocell is the generic fabric); while their manufacture does require chemicals, they're safer than those used on regular rayon, and the wood used as a raw material is certified as sustainably sourced. </p><p>Another key component of sustainable shopping can happen in front of the computer. The apparel industry's supply chains are notoriously opaque; materials may move from the fields of one country to a spinning mill in another, a knitter in a third, and a manufacturer in perhaps a fourth nation. "Each step requires specialized equipment and significant investment," said Donna Worley of Textile Exchange. "It may take six or seven stops and six to eight months before a bale of cotton becomes a pair of socks," and the same is true for other fabrics.</p><p>In response, Cline said, get thee to Google. "Start looking for brands that are rethinking the way they manufacture clothing," she said. That means much more than just powering their headquarters with renewable energy; increasingly, it means radical transparency about the supply chain they're utilizing. Trailblazing companies like Everlane and Allbirds highlight all of the factories they work with on their websites, opening them up to further scrutiny.</p><p>Analysts say that younger shoppers tend to be far more concerned with how their clothes were made than preceding generations — and manufacturers are highly aware of it. That's consumer power, and an increasing number of brands are responding. Even companies such as H&M and Gucci have made significant efforts to reduce their environmental impact, though they're still in the minority. Online ranking tools like <a href="https://goodonyou.eco/" target="_blank">Good on You</a> can highlight various brands' efforts.</p><p>But some consumers are electing to abandon disposable fashion altogether and are taking advantage of new disruptive business models. Online secondhand retailers like Thredup and the RealReal are thriving, as is subscription fashion service Rent the Runway, which was valued at $1 billion earlier this year. </p><p>And then, of course, brick-and-mortar thrift shops are located in most towns and cities. Many are packed with inventory and humming with business, given the high turnover rate of clothing today. They, too, can be part of a sustainable fashion strategy. </p><p>But the first and most important step, says Deborah Drew, associate and social impact lead at the World Resources Institute's business center, is simply reducing one's consumption. Drew encourages people to not redo their wardrobes every few weeks. "Instead, they should buy more timeless pieces they can keep," she said. "Really try to be conscious about what they buy and what impact it has on the planet."</p><p>After all, Drew explained, "[while] improvements in technology are great, if we're still producing at such a volume, it's outweighing all the good of these new technologies and fibers. We're simply overwhelmed by the volume."</p>
<p> <em>Reposted with permission from <a href="https://www.yesmagazine.org/planet/shop-sustainable-shopping-20191129" target="_blank">YES! Magazine</a>.<a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/r/entryeditor/2641484083#/" target="_self"></a></em><em></em></p>From Your Site Articles
- How to Make 'Farm-to-Closet' Clothing a Reality - EcoWatch ›
- 4 Brands Going Green This Black Friday - EcoWatch ›
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Motivating slogan "Make Friday Green Again" urges consumers to ignore Black Friday sales. anyaivanova / iStock / Getty Images
Black Friday is one of the busiest shopping days of the year, and the consumption it encourages can take a toll on human and planetary health.
<p>"For people who don't have purchasing power, the ability to be able to buy something that is a necessity at a discounted price is obviously a benefit," MIT professor Nicholas Ashford told <a href="https://www.nationalgeographic.com/environment/2018/11/how-black-friday-cyber-monday-impacts-environment/" target="_blank">National Geographic</a> last year. "For other people with more than enough, it just perpetuates a consumption-oriented society, which has an adverse effect on the environment."</p><p>In recent years, however, some companies have come to agree. Here are what four brands are doing to encourage more environmentally-friendly activities for the day after <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/tag/thanksgiving">Thanksgiving</a>.</p>
1. REI Opts to Act
<div id="f4082" class="rm-shortcode" data-rm-shortcode-id="WQGLGI1576661074"><blockquote class="twitter-tweet twitter-custom-tweet" data-twitter-tweet-id="1196541266311274501" data-partner="rebelmouse"><div style="margin:1em 0">Join us this Black Friday for a nationwide cleanup – kicking off a year of change. Together we can fight for life o… https://t.co/X9aPLWB858</div> — REI (@REI)<a href="https://twitter.com/REI/statuses/1196541266311274501">1574112643.0</a></blockquote></div><p>The outdoor gear company has closed its doors on Black Friday for five years now, encouraging its customers and employees, who are paid for the day, to <a href="https://twitter.com/search?q=%23OptOutside&src=hashtag_click" rel="noopener noreferrer">#OptOutside</a> and spend time in nature.</p><p>Originally, this decision was made for the sake of the company's employees, since Black Friday tends to pull retail workers away from their families, Ben Steele, the company's executive vice president and chief customer officer, told <a href="https://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/entry/black-friday-rei-deciem-boycott_n_5dd6e68fe4b0fb24c847a95c?ri18n=true" target="_blank">HuffPost</a>.</p><p>But this year, REI is adding an environmental component and encouraging its customers to Opt to Act by joining one of the <a href="https://www.rei.com/opt-outside" target="_blank">cleanups</a> it has organized around the country with <a href="https://lnt.org/get-involved/volunteer/lnt-rei-fall-cleanup-events/" target="_blank">the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics</a> and <a href="https://unitedbyblue.com/optoutside" target="_blank">United By Blue</a>. The store said those who don't live near a cleanup can still pick up trash while they spend time outdoors.</p><p>"Today, that future is at risk," REI CEO and President Eric Artz <a href="https://www.rei.com/blog/stewardship/opt-outside-2019-eric-artz" target="_blank">wrote in a letter</a> announcing the campaign. "We are in the throes of an environmental crisis that threatens not only the next 81 years of the co-op, but the incredible outdoor places that we love. <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/climate-change/" target="_self">Climate change</a> is the greatest existential threat facing our co-op. I believe we do not have the luxury of calling climate change a political issue. This is a human issue. And we must act now."</p>2. Deciem Plans a "Moment of Nothingness"
<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/B4UnDyJnc14/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="12" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B4UnDyJnc14/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"></div></div></div><div style="padding: 19% 0;"></div> <div style="display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;"><svg width="50px" height="50px" viewBox="0 0 60 60" version="1.1" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><g stroke="none" stroke-width="1" fill="none" fill-rule="evenodd"><g transform="translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)" fill="#000000"><g><path d="M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631"></path></g></g></g></svg></div><div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style=" color:#3897f0; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:550; line-height:18px;"> View this post on Instagram</div></div><div style="padding: 12.5% 0;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;"><div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);"></div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;"></div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);"></div></div><div style="margin-left: 8px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;"></div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg)"></div></div><div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style=" width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);"></div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);"></div></div></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;"></div></div></a><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B4UnDyJnc14/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank">A post shared by THE ABNORMAL BEAUTY COMPANY (@deciem)</a> on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2019-11-01T12:00:26+00:00">Nov 1, 2019 at 5:00am PDT</time></p></div></blockquote> <script async src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script><p>Beauty company Deciem is also making a point this year by closing its stores and website Nov. 29 and implementing a month-long 23 percent discount for every one of its products sold online and in stores.</p><p>"Hyper-consumerism poses one of the biggest threats to the planet, and flash sales can often lead to rushed purchasing decisions, driven by the fear of a sell-out," the company wrote in a Nov. 1 Instagram post. "We no longer feel that Black Friday is an earth or consumer-friendly event, and have therefore decided to close our website and stores for a moment of nothingness on the 29th November."</p><p>In addition to environmental concerns, Deciem, which owns beauty brands The Ordinary and NIOD, emphasized that it wanted to give customers time to choose the right products.</p><p>"We strongly believe that skincare decisions should be based on education rather than impulse, and hope that a month-long promotion will provide the time for research, reflection, and consideration," they wrote.</p>3. 300+ Clothing Brands Unite to "Make Friday Green Again"
<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/B4cPSORDwXz/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="12" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B4cPSORDwXz/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"></div></div></div><div style="padding: 19% 0;"></div> <div style="display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;"><svg width="50px" height="50px" viewBox="0 0 60 60" version="1.1" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><g stroke="none" stroke-width="1" fill="none" fill-rule="evenodd"><g transform="translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)" fill="#000000"><g><path d="M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631"></path></g></g></g></svg></div><div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style=" color:#3897f0; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:550; line-height:18px;"> View this post on Instagram</div></div><div style="padding: 12.5% 0;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;"><div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);"></div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;"></div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);"></div></div><div style="margin-left: 8px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;"></div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg)"></div></div><div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style=" width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);"></div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);"></div></div></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;"></div></div></a><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B4cPSORDwXz/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank">A post shared by FAGUO (@faguo)</a> on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2019-11-04T11:06:37+00:00">Nov 4, 2019 at 3:06am PST</time></p></div></blockquote> <script async src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script><p><a href="http://www.ecowatch.com/tag/fast-fashion" rel="noopener noreferrer">Fast fashion</a> is a major environmental problem. A garbage-truck's worth of textiles is discarded every second, according to an <a href="https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/news/one-garbage-truck-of-textiles-wasted-every-second-report-creates-vision-for-change" target="_blank">Ellen MacArthur Foundation study</a>. Clothing also sheds more than 50 billion <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/tag/plastics" target="_self">plastic</a> bottles worth of microfibers into the <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/tag/oceans" target="_self">oceans</a> every year. If industry practices don't change, fashion will gobble up a quarter of the world's carbon budget by 2050.</p><p>So it's fitting that more than 300 clothing companies are taking Black Friday off, <a href="https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-50359603" target="_blank">BBC News reported</a>. The Make Friday Green Again collective, whose members are largely French, wants customers to spend the day going through their closets to decide what they can repair, recycle or give away.</p><p>"When people buy something, we pollute because of the carbon emissions that come from making that product, from using it and then getting rid of that product," Nicolas Rohr, who started the group and co-founded green clothing company Faguo, told BBC News. "Today we don't buy what we need; we buy because we are tempted. We are not in a good relationship with consumption any more."</p>4. Patagonia Will Match Your Green Gifts
<p>Outdoor store Patagonia will remain open to shoppers Black Friday, but it is also using this holiday season to encourage a different kind of gift giving.</p><p>Starting Nov. 29 and lasting through December, the company will match any donations made to one of environmental groups it supports through <a href="https://www.patagonia.com/actionworks/#!/choose-location/" target="_blank">Patagonia Action Works</a>, even if the giver doesn't purchase anything from the company. Customers can donate in their own name or as a gift, and the store will provide eCards and cards to print online or physical cards in store.</p><p>"Black Friday is often a day when we go out and buy things we don't really need and give them to people who don't really want them," Patagonia CEO Rose Marcario wrote on <a href="https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/black-friday-giving-rose-marcario/?published=t" target="_blank">LinkedIn</a>. "This year, consider giving to our home planet in the name of someone you love."</p><p>In her message, Marcario pointed out that environmental groups only receive three percent of charitable giving, despite the urgency of the climate crisis.</p><p>She also wasn't above encouraging a little passive-aggressive gift-giving when donating in others' names.</p><p>"With a wink and a friendly nudge, you might include those relatives or friends who refuse to believe in climate science," she wrote.</p>The Elephant in the Room
<p>While these brands are offering a different vision of Black Friday, <a href="https://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/entry/black-friday-rei-deciem-boycott_n_5dd6e68fe4b0fb24c847a95c?ri18n=true" target="_blank">HuffPost writer Laura Paddison cautioned</a> that the movement away from a door-busting Black Friday doesn't change the underlying culture of consumption that drives environmental harm year round. Both Deciem and REI offered November sales. (REI discounted items by up to 30 percent between Nov. 15 and 25.)</p><p>"[T]he elephant in the room here is that, even for companies that work hard to toe an ethical line, a business model predicated on growth means the ultimate aim is always to get people to buy more, which means producing more, which means more resources extracted, and more stuff in the world," she wrote.</p>From Your Site Articles
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Rebecca Burgess came up with the idea of a fibersheds project to develop an eco-friendly, locally sourced wardrobe. Nicolás Boullosa / CC BY 2.0
By Tara Lohan
If I were to open my refrigerator, the origins of most of the food wouldn't be too much of a mystery — the milk, cheese and produce all come from relatively nearby farms. I can tell from the labels on other packaged goods if they're fair trade, non-GMO or organic.
<p>But if I were to open my closet, it'd be a different story. I know shockingly little about where the clothes I own come from, what chemicals went into making them, or how far they may have traveled.</p><p>In recent years the idea of eating from our own local foodsheds has become more popular, but can the idea of locally sourcing things we use be taken beyond food?</p><p>Rebecca Burgess wondered that, too. A trained weaver and dyer, she came up with the idea of a <em>fibersheds</em> project about 10 years ago to develop an eco-friendly, locally sourced wardrobe.</p><p>The project led to the establishment of a nonprofit, Fibershed, to put some of her experiences into practice. Now Burgess has expanded it even more in her new book, <em><a href="https://www.chelseagreen.com/product/fibershed/" target="_blank">Fibershed: Growing a Movement of Farmers, Fashion Activists and Makers for a New Textile Economy</a>.</em></p><p>As Burgess writes, we're still a long way from local fibersheds supplying our clothes, but fixing that paradigm is the focus of the book.</p><p>Burgess describes fibersheds as "place-based textile sovereignty … focused on the source of the raw material, the transparency with which it is converted into clothing, and the connectivity among all parts, from soil to skin and back to soil."</p><p>Essentially, it's knowing a lot better where your clothes come from. But it's also about disconnecting from a harmful system and reinvigorating a local, place-based economy where the process of "farm to closet" is beneficial for the environment and all the people involved in the supply chain.</p><p>The main focus of the book is explaining the tough work of how to create a fibershed, but she starts with why we need one to begin with. And it's a pretty convincing picture.</p><p>"The [textile] industry utilizes thousands of synthetic compounds, often in various combinations to soften, process and dye our clothing, many of which are linked to a range of human diseases, including chronic illnesses and cancer," she writes.</p><p>About 98 percent of the clothes sold in the U.S. are made overseas, many in factories where workers face dangerous conditions. These days we also buy more clothes than we have in the past, and we keep them for less time. "<a href="http://www.ecowatch.com/tag/fast-fashion" target="_self">Fast fashion</a>" — clothes designed to last just two weeks before being thrown away — is a real thing. And a real problem.</p><p>The entire textile economy — much like the industrial food economy — is bad for people and the planet.</p><p>So what do we do about it? Burgess spends most of her book focusing on how to build the infrastructure to produce the materials we need locally, ethically and <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/tag/sustainability" target="_self">sustainably</a>. And she doesn't skirt around the fact that this is really tough to pull off.</p><p>As she found in her initial year-long project, getting local clothes is not nearly as easy as getting local food because the materials for clothes need to be processed in multiple stages. That takes specific equipment and skilled labor — something in short supply in the U.S. these days.</p><p>Take cotton, for example.</p><p>Burgess's home state of California still grows a lot of cotton, but most of it is shipped overseas for combing and spinning, and then to be cheaply made into clothes. And what's grown here is almost all genetically modified.</p><p>"Global-scale commodity systems have done a very good job of making it harder and more expensive to purchase a locally grown cotton T-shirt than it is to drive to a box store and purchase an equivalent garment grown and constructed on several different continents," she writes.</p><p>That doesn't mean the system can't be changed. Doing so means supporting existing farmers and helping them transition to more climate-friendly farming practices, she says. Burgess weaves a whole chapter about how good <a href="http://www.ecowatch.com/tag/farming" target="_self">farming</a> techniques can help build healthy soil, an important component for making the most of water resources (which can be sparse in California) and helping to sequester carbon.</p>
<img lazy-loadable="true" src="https://assets.rebelmouse.io/eyJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiIsInR5cCI6IkpXVCJ9.eyJpbWFnZSI6Imh0dHBzOi8vYXNzZXRzLnJibC5tcy8yMjA3NjQwOS9vcmlnaW4uanBnIiwiZXhwaXJlc19hdCI6MTY3Njk2ODc0NX0.unUUAVPnMeHbUU5zCU27Xo4IAjpjST2xQJ-PNNq48KU/img.jpg?width=980" id="1e72f" class="rm-shortcode" data-rm-shortcode-id="19ee468562ffa8e82fe4716ac223cdf6" data-rm-shortcode-name="rebelmouse-image" />
Chelsea Green
<p>As an example she points to California grower <a href="https://www.vreseis.com/" target="_blank">Sally Fox</a>, who breeds naturally colored cotton (apparently not all cotton is white) in the Capay Valley and implements soil-building farming practices rotating cotton with heirloom wheat and a flock of Merino sheep.</p><p>Burgess also stitches together examples of other plant and animal-based fibers being used in her region of Northern California and explains why they can help supplant the need for synthetic and chemical-based fabrics we mostly rely on now.</p><p>There's flax, which produces linen, and is best suited for growing during California's rainy season when farmers don't need additional irrigation water. And of course the use of water-thrifty hemp has experienced a resurgence since most restrictions on farming and selling it have been lifted.</p><p>And then there are a litany of animal fibers. In her region in Northern California alone, she writes, there are around 20 different types of sheep being raised, as well as Huacaya and Suri alpaca, mohair goats, llamas, Angora rabbits and guanacos (a close relative of the llama).</p><p>But finding the fiber is just one part of the equation. Processing all of this raw material — each of which requires different techniques — is the biggest obstacle.</p><p>California produces 3 million pounds of wool a year but has the milling capacity for just 10,000 pounds. That's a very big gap to close — but Burgess and her collaborators are trying. They have a plan for a "closed-loop manufacturing model" that will help bring the right milling equipment close to home and connect it to local producers and artisans. But it comes with a price tag of $26 million.</p><p>Every fibershed is likely to have different costs depending on local materials, equipment and expertise, but they all face the same conundrum: How do you produce enough locally sourced materials to fund the systems to make even more locally sourced materials?</p><p>In order to move forward projects like this one in Northern California and in other communities around the country, we'll need vastly more demand and real commitment from clothing companies and retailers. There's less in the book specifically focused on how consumers can actively help drive that process. But there are ample resources if you want to learn more about what fibersheds are being developed where you live or how to engage in the process yourself. Don't expect the book to read like a "how to" manual, though. It's more of a thoughtful discussion of issues, obstacles and solutions, including meeting on-the-ground farmers and producers who are putting these practices to work.</p><p>At the very minimum the book has made me rethink virtually everything my closet, and even a shift in consuming thinking at this point seems like a step in the right direction. Supporting fibersheds may not be as simple as shopping at farmers markets instead of box stores, but Burgess drives home the tremendous value in just trying.</p><p>Her yearlong local clothes experiment 10 years ago, for example, led to new friendships and the launch of four new businesses. Engaging in this kind of process, she writes, creates "opportunities to build new relationships that are rooted in sharing skills, physical labor, and creativity, all of which carry meaning, purpose, and a way to belong to one another and to the land."</p><p>That's the perfect antidote to "fast fashion" and a reminder that our allegiance to a disposable, throwaway culture — the one that produces plastic bottles, flimsy T-shirts and weak interpersonal relationships — is what needs to be tossed.</p>
<p><em>Tara Lohan is deputy editor of The Revelator.<br/></em></p><p><em>Reposted with permission from <a href="https://therevelator.org/fibershed-book-review/" target="_blank">The Revelator</a>.</em></p>From Your Site Articles
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Workers sew jeans in a makeshift shed that serves as a workshop in Xintang, Zengcheng. Lu Guang / Greenpeace
By Courtney Lindwall
Question: I've heard that producing denim is particularly bad for the environment. Do I need to give up my blue jeans?
<p>Answer: Throwaway plastics and gas-guzzling cars are the typical consumer no-nos, but clothing also has oversize impacts on the planet and our health. And it's true — denim is one of the worst offenders.</p>
<p>Let's start with the fabric. Denim is made primarily with cotton, though it's now often blended with synthetic fibers like polyester. And though all fibers <a href="https://www.nrdc.org/sites/default/files/CBD-Fiber-Selection-FS.pdf" target="_blank">have their trade-offs</a>, "cotton in general is a very thirsty crop," said <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/by/tatiana-schlossberg" target="_blank">Tatiana Schlossberg</a>, a former environmental reporter at the New York Times and the author of <a href="https://www.grandcentralpublishing.com/titles/tatiana-schlossberg/inconspicuous-consumption/9781538747094/" target="_blank"><em>Inconspicuous Consumption</em></a>, a new book on the hidden environmental impact of our spending habits. Very thirsty, indeed: Producing just 1 kilogram (2.2 pounds) of cotton can require up to 7,660 gallons of water, depending on where it's grown. (In comparison, producing 2.2 <a href="https://www.imeche.org/docs/default-source/default-document-library/global-food---waste-not-want-not.pdf?sfvrsn=0" target="_blank">pounds of tomatoes</a> requires one one-hundredth of that amount, 76 gallons.) A cotton crop consumes a lot of chemicals too: <a href="https://www.nrdc.org/sites/default/files/CBD_FiberFacts_Cotton.pdf" target="_blank">16 percent of all insecticides</a> are used on the plant, and many of them pose significant health risks for farm workers and nearby residents.</p><p>Nowhere have the impacts from this process been more evident than in <a href="https://www.chinadialogue.net/article/show/single/en/6283-The-denim-capital-of-the-world-so-polluted-you-can-t-give-the-houses-away" target="_blank">Xintang, a town in </a><a href="https://www.chinadialogue.net/article/show/single/en/6283-The-denim-capital-of-the-world-so-polluted-you-can-t-give-the-houses-away" target="_blank">southern </a><a href="https://www.chinadialogue.net/article/show/single/en/6283-The-denim-capital-of-the-world-so-polluted-you-can-t-give-the-houses-away" target="_blank">China</a>. The denim capital of the world, it produces one in every three pairs of jeans sold. Because of limited regulatory oversight, by 2013 Xintang's rivers ran a deep blue and smelled foul, a result of manufacturers dumping chemical-laden wastewater directly into local waterways. Unsafe amounts of toxic metals like mercury, lead and copper have been found in the water, which residents rely on for drinking and bathing. Workers and residents have <a href="https://www.chinadialogue.net/article/show/single/en/6283-The-denim-capital-of-the-world-so-polluted-you-can-t-give-the-houses-away" target="_blank">reported rashes</a>, lesions, and, some locals believe, infertility. Denim also goes through a particularly energy — and water-intensive — and destructive — dyeing and finishing process, beginning with what gives the fabric its signature indigo color (originally a plant-based dye, but today largely replaced with a synthetic version). After dyeing, fabrics are repeatedly treated and washed with a variety of chemicals, like bleach, to soften, fade or texturize the fabric. Most of our favorite shades and styles — acid-washed, distressed, light-washed — require additional treatments and chemicals. All in all, producing a single pair of jeans requires an immense amount of water and energy and creates significant pollution.</p><p>"These clothes are cheap in the store because nobody's paying for this waste," Schlossberg said, adding that communities on the other side of the world will be footing that bill for generations.</p>
<img lazy-loadable="true" src="https://assets.rebelmouse.io/eyJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiIsInR5cCI6IkpXVCJ9.eyJpbWFnZSI6Imh0dHBzOi8vYXNzZXRzLnJibC5tcy8yMTA3MTEyMi9vcmlnaW4uanBnIiwiZXhwaXJlc19hdCI6MTY2MjIyNjU1M30.6j6ubu99YIDVnL_-Hj_nrl762OL1Dz9uSojKymQcMi8/img.jpg?width=980" id="4b544" class="rm-shortcode" data-rm-shortcode-id="bcf6a87fb3e6d0fae2affed3995037a1" data-rm-shortcode-name="rebelmouse-image" />
Top, from left: Every morning, workers at a Xintang denim-washing factory must search through wastewater to scoop out stones that are washed with the fabric in industrial washing machines to make stonewash denim; wastewater discharged from a denim-washing factory in Xintang. Bottom: A Greenpeace campaigner takes a water sample from a polluted river near Dadun Village, Xintang, where the economy is centered around textile production. Greenpeace has found high levels of industrial pollution and has documented the effects on the community.
Lu Guang / Greenpeace
<p>But the industry is transforming, however slowly. When the dangerous situation in Xintang came to light several years ago, China's central government ordered the local government to tackle <a href="http://www.mee.gov.cn/xxgk/hjyw/201812/t20181220_685358.shtml" target="_blank">the pollution issue</a>. In response, between 2016 and 2018, 76 facilities, including 68 dyeing, printing and laundry mills, were shut down. According to Sina Finance, these shutdowns have caused more than <a href="http://www.mee.gov.cn/xxgk/hjyw/201812/t20181220_685358.shtml" target="_blank">1 billion U.S. dollars' worth of local economic loss</a>. But there are now encouraging signs: Some companies are rolling out <a href="http://store.levi.com/waterless/index.html" target="_blank">new production techniques</a> that significantly reduce water usage, and other brands are <a href="https://www.everlane.com/denim-factory" target="_blank">pursuing sustainability</a> by powering their factories with renewable energy and recycling water.</p><p>Although some denim manufacturers are making smarter choices, most international corporations get away with disclosing little information about their production processes. "People need to demand that companies make their practices available. Because the information isn't there in the first place, people don't know what to ask," Schlossberg said.</p><p>Yiliqi, a scientist at the Natural Resources Defense Council (NRDC), is working to do just that. She said <a href="https://www.nrdc.org/stories/fixing-fashion-industry" target="_blank">improving the clothing industry</a> will require oversight, transparency and accountability. NRDC has worked with the <a href="http://wwwen.ipe.org.cn/" target="_blank">Institute of Public and Environmental Affairs</a> in China, for example, to <a href="http://wwwen.ipe.org.cn/MapBrand/Brand.html?q=6" target="_blank">map</a> and <a href="http://wwwen.ipe.org.cn/GreenSupplyChain/CITI.html" target="_blank">rank</a> multinational corporations on their supply chain performance. Meanwhile, the <a href="https://www.nrdc.org/resources/clean-design-2018-mill-overview" target="_blank">Clean by Design</a> program that NRDC created more than a decade ago provides a tool for brands to cut water, energy and chemical consumption as well as wastewater discharge from their supply chains. (Last year the program was transferred to the <a href="https://www.apparelimpactinstitute.org/" target="_blank">Apparel Impact Institute</a>, a collaboration of industry stakeholders working to scale up the initiative.) The Sustainable Apparel Coalition has <a href="https://apparelcoalition.org/the-higg-index/" target="_blank">developed indices for measuring</a> a products' environmental impact. And various sustainability certifications, including <a href="https://bettercotton.org/" target="_blank">BCI (Better Cotton Initiative)</a>, <a href="https://www.bluesign.com/en" target="_blank">Bluesign</a>, <a href="https://www.oeko-tex.com/en/" target="_blank">OEKO-TEX</a> and <a href="https://www.global-standard.org/" target="_blank">GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard)</a>, among others, can be used as branding and put on clothing labels, creating further incentives for companies to improve.</p><p>For individuals, Yiliqi said, "the fastest way to make an impact is to ask their brands to do better." It's also important to investigate the work a company is doing to reduce its impact before you buy its products. And if you're looking to change some of your shopping habits, here are some tips:</p><ul> <li>Avoid overconsumption. Wear the denim you have as long as possible and forgo "fast fashion," which is a term for cheaply made, trendy clothing manufactured to last only a season or two.</li></ul><ul> <li>Take existing jeans in for mending when needed, rather than tossing them out altogether.</li></ul><ul> <li>Shop at thrift stores, which extends the life and reduces the carbon footprint of each pair of jeans, or swap with friends.</li></ul><ul><li>When you do buy new, opt for durable items that will last years instead of months.</li></ul><p>We don't have to forgo this American classic — it just needs a makeover.</p>From Your Site Articles
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A Zara store in Times Square, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong. Timahaowemi / CC BY-SA 3.0
Green is the new black at Zara.
The Spanish fast fashion behemoth has made a bold move to steer its industry to a more environmentally friendly future for textiles. Inditex, Zara's parent company, announced that all the polyester, cotton and linen it uses will be sustainably produced by 2025, as CNN reported.
<p>The same guidelines will govern Inditex's other fashion brands, including Zara Home, Pull & Bear, Massimo Dutti and Bershka. Inditex has nearly 7,500 stores worldwide.</p><p>The announcement was made at Inditex's annual shareholder meeting last week. It makes Zara, which accounts for 70 percent of Inditex's sales, the first major international retailer to set such an ambitious target.</p><p>"We need to be a force for change, not only in the company but in the whole sector," said Pablo Isla, the chief executive of Inditex, as <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/jul/17/zara-collections-to-be-made-from-100-sustainable-fabrics" target="_blank">The Guardian</a> reported. "We are the ones establishing these targets: the strength and impulse for change is coming from the commercial team, the people who are working with our suppliers, the people working with fabrics. It is something that's happening inside our company."</p>
<p>Inditex's pledge to use 100 percent sustainable cottons and linens, and completely recycled polyester in all of its designs by 2025 is just part of its plans towards a more eco-conscious future. While Zara has stopped using plastic bags, Inditex plans to phase them out of all its stores by 2020. It plans to no longer use fibers from endangered forests for fabric by 2023. The company also committed to not release any toxic <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/tag/chemicals">chemicals</a> at any part of its supply chain by 2020, which is a partnership with <a href="https://www.roadmaptozero.com/about/" target="_blank">Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals</a>.</p><p>It wants <a href="http://www.ecowatch.com/renewable-energy/">renewable</a> sources to power at least 80 percent of the energy consumed in Zara's headquarters, factories and stores. It has pledged to produce zero landfill waste in all its facilities, according to <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/jul/17/zara-collections-to-be-made-from-100-sustainable-fabrics" target="_blank">The Guardian</a>.</p><p>This year the company plans to cut energy and water use in all of its stores and make sure that at least 20 percent of its clothing is part of sustainable fashion. Zara will also set up textile recycling in all of its stores worldwide where customers can drop off old clothes.</p><p>"We've always been <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/tag/sustainability" rel="noopener noreferrer">sustainability</a> conscious," said Bea Padin, a designer with Zara, in an interview with <a href="https://www.vogue.com/article/zara-sustainable-initiatives" target="_blank">Vogue</a>. "[Our] production is adjusted in response to sales, thus minimizing surplus stocks, and by extension, waste. Today we have more scope for doing this because there are more recycled and organic fabrics. The industry throws up new design opportunities, which constitute a very appealing challenge."</p><p>Inditex's recycling program has been a resounding success since it started in 2015 when Zara installed clothing banks in more than 800 stores worldwide. It has collected more than 34,000 tons of used clothes. The company has partnered with the Red Cross and other charities to redistribute the used stock. It is currently partnering with scientists at MIT to find practical and affordable ways to recycle clothing fiber.</p>"Sustainability is a never-ending task in which everyone here at Inditex is involved and in which we are successfully engaging all of our suppliers," said Isla, in his <a href="https://www.inditex.com/en/article?articleId=630055&title=Pablo+Isla+sets+out+Inditex%27s+global+sustainability+commitments" target="_blank">speech</a> to shareholders, as the <a href="https://www.cnn.com/2019/07/19/business/zara-sustainable-fashion-trnd/index.html" target="_blank">BBC</a> reported.
<blockquote class="twitter-tweet"><p lang="en" dir="ltr">The Environmental and Human Cost of Making a Pair of Jeans <a href="https://t.co/A645nNz30T">https://t.co/A645nNz30T</a> <a href="https://twitter.com/NRDC?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">@NRDC</a> <a href="https://twitter.com/Greenpeace?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">@Greenpeace</a> <a href="https://twitter.com/friends_earth?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">@friends_earth</a> <a href="https://twitter.com/RiverBlueMovie?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">@RiverBlueMovie</a> <a href="https://twitter.com/Waterkeeper?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">@Waterkeeper</a> <a href="https://twitter.com/ClimateReality?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">@ClimateReality</a> <a href="https://twitter.com/regeneration_in?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">@regeneration_in</a></p>— EcoWatch (@EcoWatch) <a href="https://twitter.com/EcoWatch/status/971820259547209730?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">March 8, 2018</a></blockquote> <script async src="https://platform.twitter.com/widgets.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
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By Allison Gardner
Under what conditions were your clothes made? More likely than not, slavery has touched at least part of the outfit you're wearing today.
<p>According to the <a href="https://downloads.globalslaveryindex.org/ephemeral/GSI-2018_FNL_180907_Digital-small-p-1555350745.pdf" target="_blank">Global Slavery Index</a>, roughly 40.3 million people were in slavery worldwide as of 2016, and 24.9 million of them were in forced labor. The GSI's latest report, which came out in summer 2018, expanded upon this research, breaking down the data to show the top five products most at risk of modern slavery. </p><p>Garments were number two on the list, coming in second only to technology.</p>
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Slavery in Fashion
<p>The fashion supply chain is complex and expansive, meaning it provides a number of opportunities for slavery to flourish. It is estimated that roughly "<a href="https://www.freedomunited.org/news/gsi-fashion-in-top-5-industries-linked-to-modern-slavery/" target="_blank">100 pairs of hands touch a garment during its production</a>," but audits are often limited to just first and second tier suppliers, meaning they typically fail to expose issues further down the supply chain. Each stage of production poses a new opportunity for worker exploitation and human rights abuses like slavery.</p><p><span style="background-color: initial;"></span><span style="background-color: initial;">One example of slavery at the raw material level of the fashion supply chain can be found in the cotton industry. Often, weak protective services or poor governmental oversight leave people vulnerable to forced labor, but in some cases, the government itself is the perpetrator.</span><br></p><p>For example, Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan, the fifth and seventh largest exporters of cotton worldwide, employ state-led forced labor systems of cotton production, according to <a href="http://www.cottoncampaign.org/about.html" target="_blank">The Cotton Campaign</a>. For decades these systems have routinely forced citizens, adults and children alike, to leave their work or school each fall in order to participate in the cotton harvest. </p><p>The Uzbek and Turkmen governments have successfully practiced this abuse of their people by threatening, detaining, assaulting, and imprisoning citizens who refuse or who attempt to report the abuse. The profits from both countries' cotton sales remain solely with the governments.</p><p>After years of advocacy and political pressure from NGOs, this past year the government of Uzbekistan finally introduced legislation to address the state-sponsored atrocity. However, research has already shown that the <a href="http://www.cottoncampaign.org/harvest-2018" target="_blank">2018 harvest this past fall</a> was still heavily reliant on forced labor.</p><p><em>[With the <a href="https://donegood.co/?ambid=ecowatch10_30" target="_blank">DoneGood Shop</a> and browser plugin, you can quickly, easily, and affordably support hundreds of ethical and sustainable brands.]</em></p>
<span style="display:block;position:relative;padding-top:56.25%;" class="rm-shortcode" data-rm-shortcode-id="709810334991f2d0095b45fb49be73a2"><iframe lazy-loadable="true" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/XTnFfa0qHIM?rel=0" width="100%" height="auto" frameborder="0" scrolling="no" style="position:absolute;top:0;left:0;width:100%;height:100%;"></iframe></span><p>Further down the supply chain, slavery also exists within the mills that spin cotton into useable material. The garment industry in India, for example, is known to have a major issue with forcing young women to work in spinning mills for little or no pay. </p><p>A system known as the "<a href="https://www.solidaridadnetwork.org/sites/solidaridadnetwork.org/files/publications/Understanding_Sumangali_Scheme_in_Tamil_Nadu.pdf" target="_blank">Sumangali Scheme</a>" has been employed for years by spinning mills and garment factories in Southern India. Praying on economically disadvantaged young women in the north, factory recruiters offer them two to three year apprenticeship contracts with the promise of a lump sum of payment at the end. </p><p>For young women from poor families, this opportunity is often too good to pass up, as many of them hope to one day be married, and their families typically cannot afford a large dowry for them (<em>sumangali</em> in Tamil means "happily married woman"). Thus, this scheme provides factory recruiters with a mechanism to easily staff their facilities at a very low cost and appears to offer young women the opportunity to seek a better future for themselves. </p><p>In practice, however, the scheme has been shown to lead to a myriad of human rights abuses, including instances of modern day slavery. The young women are all too often subject to poor or unhygienic working and living conditions, frequently face discrimination and sexual harassment, and very often do not receive that lump sum of payment they were promised. </p><p>These are just a couple examples of slavery within the fashion industry, but there are undoubtedly many more.</p>
A Complex Problem
<p>Whether it's the fields where the cotton was grown, the mills where it was spun, or the factories where the garments were sewn, the industry is notorious for providing opportunities for exploitation. </p><p>If this upsets you, and it probably should, you might wonder who's responsibility it is to step in and fight slavery within such a complex industry. </p><p>Some might point to individual brands, arguing that they choose to work with factories and manufacturers that may or may not treat their employees well. Others may turn to the factory owner or recruiter who is directly imposing the conditions that can either support or exploit other human beings. Governments, particularly those that are uncorrupted, could also be the decision-makers. </p><p>In reality, though, there is one other group that shares the power to change this system. And that's us, the consumers.</p>What We Can Do
<p>Our consumption drives a subset of an industry that relies on exploitation. And because of that, we can also become part of the solution.</p><p>This <a href="http://www.fashionrevolution.org/" target="_blank">Fashion Revolution</a> Week, we should all ask "Who Made My Clothes?" but perhaps a follow up question is also necessary: "What Am I Doing About It?" </p><p>As consumers we have power to change the fashion industry for good, but in order to do so, we must recognize our role and acknowledge our responsibility.</p><p>The first step will undoubtedly be educating ourselves, and fortunately organizations like Fashion Revolution provide us with ample resources to do that. But the second step will likely be harder; we will need to take action. </p><p>Each person's journey to conscious consumerism is unique, but at the very least, we can provide you with the tools to find brands who share your values. With the <a href="https://donegood.co/?ambid=ecowatch10_30" target="_blank">DoneGood Shop</a> and browser plugin, you can quickly, easily, and affordably support hundreds of ethical and sustainable brands.</p>
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